Who Founded Comme des Garçons?

Comme des Garçons, the legendary Japanese fashion label known for its avant-garde approach, unconventional styles, and redefining modern fashion, is one of the most influential names in the global fashion industry. The name translates to "like boys" in French, indicating a rebellious stance on traditional femininity. Since its inception, Comme des Garçons has challenged norms, presenting collections that blend masculinity and femininity, traditional and futuristic, while refusing to conform to any particular genre. The brand has developed a strong cult following and is celebrated worldwide for its innovation, creativity, and boundary-pushing designs. But who founded this iconic fashion label, and what inspired its beginnings? To understand the origins of Comme des Garçons, we must look at the vision and journey of its founder, Rei Kawakubo.

Who is Rei Kawakubo?

Rei Kawakubo, the enigmatic and innovative designer behind Comme des Garçons, was born in Tokyo, Japan, in 1942. Her journey into fashion was unconventional. Unlike many designers who pursue fashion studies, Kawakubo studied fine arts and literature at Keio University. After her graduation, she worked in advertising for the Japanese company Asahi Kasei. During this time, she developed an interest in fashion, despite having no formal training in design. This outsider perspective helped shape her unique approach to clothing. She was not bound by conventional ideas or methods, allowing her to explore fashion with a fresh perspective, unburdened by traditional fashion techniques or trends.

The Founding of Comme des Garçons

Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1969. Initially, it was a small venture that sold women’s clothing, but by 1973, Kawakubo formally established Comme des Garçons as a brand. The early designs reflected her unique aesthetic, characterized by an anti-fashion ethos, androgynous silhouettes, and unconventional use of materials. Her designs broke away from traditional Japanese fashion and the prevailing Western styles of the time. Kawakubo's first collections used predominantly dark colors, especially black, which became a defining feature of the brand. Her approach stood in stark contrast to the colorful, glamorized fashion trends popular in Japan and the West during the 1970s.

Expansion and Rise in Popularity

The success of Comme des Garçons in Japan prompted Kawakubo to expand internationally. In 1981, she debuted her collection in Paris, where her designs were met with mixed reactions. Her pieces, which featured deconstructed elements, asymmetry, and a largely black palette, challenged the standards of beauty and fashion prevalent in Europe. Some critics called her designs "Hiroshima chic," a term that Kawakubo found offensive, while others appreciated her raw, emotive approach to fashion. The Paris debut solidified her reputation as a disruptor in the fashion world. She introduced the idea of "anti-fashion," challenging the industry’s norms and aesthetics. Her impact in Paris was significant, as it paved the way for Japanese designers to enter and influence the European fashion scene.

Comme des Garçons’ Influence on the Fashion World

Over the decades, Comme des Garçons has become synonymous with avant-garde fashion. Kawakubo’s work has influenced countless designers and inspired a new wave of creativity in the industry. Her approach to deconstruction—breaking down traditional garment structures and reassembling them in unexpected ways—became one of her most recognizable techniques. Designers and brands worldwide have taken cues from her bold exploration of form, structure, and silhouette. The brand's collections often play with asymmetry, drapery, and oversized silhouettes, challenging conventional ideas of proportion and symmetry. Kawakubo’s work encouraged other designers to experiment and embrace imperfections, and she introduced fashion as an art form rather than merely clothing.

The Comme des Garçons Legacy and Philosophy

Kawakubo’s philosophy has always revolved around challenging norms. She famously said, "For something to be beautiful, it doesn’t have to be pretty." This mindset has driven her work for decades and allowed her to consistently create pieces that spark conversations and provoke thought. She designs not to cater to trends but to question the essence of fashion and beauty. This philosophy has become the cornerstone of Comme des Garçons and has resonated deeply with consumers looking for something different from mainstream fashion. The brand does not just create clothes but an experience that reflects Kawakubo’s vision of individuality, nonconformity, and intellectual depth.

Comme des Garçons’ Expansion into New Ventures

Comme des Garçons has not limited itself to clothing alone. Under Kawakubo’s direction, the brand expanded into fragrance, Comme des Garçons Site Officiel retail, and various collaborative projects. The Comme des Garçons fragrance line, for instance, has become famous for its unconventional scents that defy the norms of the perfume industry. Kawakubo approached fragrances in the same way she approached fashion—challenging traditional concepts and redefining what a fragrance could be. Additionally, Comme des Garçons collaborated with global brands like Nike, Converse, and Supreme, blending streetwear with high fashion and further broadening the brand's appeal to younger generations.

Rei Kawakubo’s Lasting Impact on Fashion

Rei Kawakubo’s influence extends far beyond Comme des Garçons. Her impact on fashion is so profound that the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute in New York dedicated an exhibition to her work in 2017, titled "Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between." This exhibition highlighted her contribution to fashion as a form of art and honored her as one of the few living designers to receive such recognition. The exhibition underscored her role in transforming fashion into a medium of artistic and cultural expression. Kawakubo’s work continues to inspire designers, artists, and creators across various disciplines.

Comme des Garçons Today and Looking Forward

Today, Comme des Garçons remains at the forefront of avant-garde fashion, continually evolving under Kawakubo’s guidance. Her designs have maintained their relevance by consistently pushing the boundaries of creativity, even as trends in fashion change. The brand has expanded to numerous lines and has a strong presence in retail locations worldwide. Comme des Garçons remains committed to challenging traditional fashion norms and continues to inspire those who seek something beyond the conventional.